Top DIY Mouse Removal Tips And Tricks for
“Getting The Mouse Out Of The House”
1. Step one is to clean any garbage or debris from around your home including seeds that fall around a bird feeder. Any objects leaning against your home could be concealing entry points or nesting locations.
Cut back any bushes, flowers or trees to at least 1′ 1/2 feet away from your home. Make sure that no tree branches are leaning onto your home. Mice will use these as bridges to climb onto your roof.
1. Common entry point signs.
Mice have the ability to squeeze into openings one-quarter of an inch and up. A good rule of thumb is if you can fit a pencil into a crack, hole or opening, a mouse can get through it.
1. Any Ventilation point such as laundry, Roof or Under home crawl space vents.
2. Gaps between walls and/or ceilings.
3. Unsealed drainage pipes or electrical wires running into your home.
4. damaged section of wall or paneling
6. space created by crumbling mortar
7. hollowed crack in a foundation
8. Holes or cracks in a window Frame.
2. Sealing off entry points.
Step one is to fill in a gap with Steel wool. This is going to be the backing that stops the mice from chewing their way through.
Step two is to use a Caulking Gun with Silicone Sealant to cover over the steel wool making sure to completely seal the gap.
Step three is to use a putty knife or wet glove finger to smooth out the silicone sealant around the hole.
This ensures a good spread of the silicone sealant and makes things look clean and professional.
If a gap in your home is quite large then you will need to use galvanized, brass or copper hardware cloth with a grid (mesh) size of 1/8″ or 1/4″
Secured in place using roofing screws, roofing nails or caulking.
3. Dryer Vents Protection
Dryer ventilation covers are notorious for creating an easy access point for mice. Your typical dryer vent with airflow flaps can be easily pried open by the little rodent fingers giving them access to your home. Luckily this is a cheap and easy fix!
1. The first Step for making a Mouse Proof Dryer Vent is to find or purchase some galvanized hardware cloth with a grid (mesh) size of 1/8″ or 1/4″. Hardware cloth also comes in 1/2″ mesh, but that is too large for barring rodents. Do not purchase chicken wire (sometimes called poultry netting), which has thin wire and large openings.
2. Cut the mesh to size using standard tin snips and make sure to cut closely along the side of a wire to prevent having any sharp protruding ends sticking out (Wearing gloves might be a good idea).
3. Place the cut piece mesh over the ventilation hole and secure it in place using roofing screws or roofing nails. Put in a nail or screw every 2″ to 3″ along the edges, ensuring the mesh lies flat with no gaps for the mice to fit through.
4. Building A DIY Live Bucket Mouse Trap
1. One 5-gallon bucket
2. A sheet of Galvanized hardware cloth with a grid (mesh) size of 1/8″ or 1/4″.
3. Tin Snips
4. Some Reese’s peanut butter cups or plain Peanut butter.
5. A Plastic or Metal Pipe that is 1” 1/2 wide and 6″ long
6. Zip Ties
Building the DIY bucket trap
3. Cut the mesh to shape using Tin Snips while making sure to leave an extra inch of overhang out from the traced line on the mesh.
4. Set the bucket right side up and place the wire mesh over the top of the bucket. Bend the extra inch of overhang wire around the edges of the bucket
5. Trace a One and a half inch ( 1” 1/2 ) circle into the center of the mesh over the opening of the bucket.
6. Cut a line straight up and down in the ( 1” 1/2 ) circle, then cut another line straight across the ( 1” 1/2 ) circle from left to right to form a crosscut.
( Do not cut out the 4 flaps left behind in the ( 1” 1/2 ) circle )
7. Run a Zip Tie through the tips of all 4 flaps left behind from the center crosscut
8. Push the ( 1” 1/2 wide and 6″ long ) plastic or metal pipe into the center cutout untell it is flush with the top of the mesh.
9. Pull the Zip Tie tight to secure the pipe in place.
10. Cut a 2-inch strip of wire mesh to lean on the outside of the bucket. This will act as a ladder for the mice to climb up to the top of the bucket.
11. Break up some Reese’s peanut butter cup and throw them into the bucket making sure to Smear Peanut Butter around the top rim of the bucket and on the inside of the pipe. This will help the smell get a better reach.
5. Building A DIY Water Bucket Mouse Trap
1. One 5-gallon bucket
2. Coat Hanger or Metal Wire
3. Cordless Drill (corded will also work) and a Drill Bit with a diameter that is a little bit larger than your Coat Hanger Or Wire.
4. Wire Cutters.
5. Empty pop or water bottle.
4. Some Reese’s peanut butter cups or plain Peanut butter.
Building the DIY bucket trap
1. Use a Sharpy to mark two drill points straight across from each other on opposite sides of the bucket.
These dill points should be located one inch down from the top rim of the bucket.
2. Drill through the bucket on the two opposite side Sharpy marks.
3. Cut the Coat Hanger Or Wire to the width ( Wide ) of the bucket + 6 inches.
4. Drill one hole in the center of the pop bottle lid and one hole in the center of the pop bottle bottom.
5. Now run the Wire through the first hole of the bucket, into the top of the pop bottle and out through the bottom running into the second hole on the opposite side of the bucket.
Make sure that the wire is sticking out evenly on each side of the bucket, then bend the tips of the wire straight down on both sides of the bucket to hold it in space.
6. Break up some Reese’s peanut butter cups and smear them around on the inside walls of the 5-gallon bucket making sure to smear lots on the pop bottle as well.
This will help the smell get a better reach.
7. Take the bucket to its Mouse catching location and add 6 inches of water to the bucket.
8. Lean some boards, sticks or anything that can work as a ramp for the mice to reach the top of the bucket.
( This trap will also work without water if you would like not to kill the mice )
6. DIY Store Bought Mouse Traps
1. Humane Catch and Release Mouse Trap
These traps are 100% safe to use around children and pets.
- HUMANE – Does not kill or cause any injury to the captured animal.
- SAFE – No poisons, chemicals, sprays, or glues.
- RELIABLE AND REUSABLE.
- RECOMMENDED AND GUARANTEED – These types of traps are endorsed by Humane Societies and Animal Rights Organizations.
2. First on the list is the Humane “No Kill” Smart Mousetrap
“No kill” smart mouse traps are by far ones of the best ways to remove mice from your home without causing them harm.
Smart mousetraps work by closing a trap door behind the mouse after it has tripped the trigger pad.
3. Third on the list is the classic wooden mouse trap
The classic wooden mousetrap is a simple yet effective trap that has been able to withstand the test of time since it was invented in 1897.
How To Set A Classic Wooden Mouse Trap
1. Remove the arm bar from the staple.
2. Move the arm bar to the back of the trap so it hangs over the back of the trap.
3. Bait the trap with peanut butter, chocolate, hazelnut spread or anything high in protein. Place the bait on the metal bait pedal using a Q-Tip, toothpick or another tool to mask your human scent.
4. Pull the kill bar back and hold it in place with your thumb.
5. Swing the arm bar over the kill bar and latch the bent end of the arm bar into the notch on the metal pedal as shown. Slowly release pressure from the kill bar until the arm bar has fully engaged and holds the kill bar securely.
6. Place the trap wherever you’ve seen signs of rodent activity or along the wall where rodents like to travel. The baited end of the trap should be placed flush against the wall.
4. Fourth on the list is the Electric Mouse Trap
Electric mouse traps work by using smart circuit technology to sense when a mouse enters the trap.
Once inside, the mouse receives a high voltage shock which quickly kills the mouse within about 5 seconds.
Due to this traps covered tunnel design, these traps are safe to use around pets and children.
How To Set An Electic Mouse Trap
1. Remove the battery cover.
2. Insert 4 “AA” batteries.
3. Replace the battery cover.
4. Open the lid on the electronic mouse trap. Bait the trap using the bait trough provided. The bait trough is located on the back wall of the trap. Apply a small amount of peanut butter or anything high in protein like chocolate, hazelnut spread, etc. Be sure to use a Q-tip, toothpick or another tool to bait so your scent is not transferred onto the trap. Close the lid on the electronic mouse trap.
5. Place the trap where you have seen signs of rodent activity or along the wall where rodents primarily travel. The trap should be placed lengthwise against the wall with the entrance hole nearest the wall.
6. Turn on the trap – a green light will blink once showing the trap is working properly.
7. A blinking green light will indicate a kill. To dispose of the mouse, simply open the lid and dump the mouse directly into the trash without having to touch the mouse at all. The trap can then be reset or discarded based on personal preference. To reset, just add more bait, place the trap, and turn it on.
5. Fifth On The List Is The Glue Trap
Glue traps are an excellent, simple and non-toxic method of rodent control, however for best results they must be placed properly. Always place your glue boards or glue trays along known travel paths of the rodent.
Mice are cautious to interact with new objects that are in their environment. Make sure to place your glue traps in areas where signs of mouse activity take place.
Mice like to travel along walls and baseboards so place your traps along these areas where evidence of mice such as fecal pellets or droppings are seen. When placing traps it is always best to lay them flat with the side along the wall bent up 90 degrees using the provided perforation that runs lengthwise along the one long side on the board. This will create two catch areas, one along the wall and another on the floor.
Another option is to tent the glue trap.
This should be done when placed in a dusty or dirty area or you want to prevent children or pets from coming in contact with the adhesive or the catch in the trap.
Most mouse glue boards are pre-baited with a non-allergenic peanut butter attractant so no additional baiting is required. In addition to mice, these traps will also catch crawling insects and spiders.
By following these simple tips you will greatly increase your success and eliminate your mouse problem.
7. Natural Mouse Repelling Deterrents
1. First on the list is peppermint oil
Peppermint oil is known for being a good all natural mouse deterrent.
When it comes to using peppermint oil as a mouse deterrent, be sure to use 100% peppermint oil, as diluted oil will not be strong enough.
Simply soak some cotton balls with 5 drops of 100% peppermint oil each.
Note, peppermint oil could stain your floors, carpets, ledges etc.
Be sure to use small plates, plastic yogurt lids or something that will contain excess oil leaking out from the cotton ball.
As for placement, Mice like to travel along walls and baseboards so place your cotton balls around those areas and where evidence of mice such as fecal pellets or droppings are seen.
For best results, be sure to replace old with new cotton balls every 2 to 4 weeks.
Using peppermint oil in a spray bottle
Spraying peppermint oil around your doors or and other entrances once a week can discourage mice before they come into your home for a visit.
For this method, you will need to place 10 drops of peppermint oil into a spray bottle with water.
2. Second On The List Of Natural Deterrents Is Organic Eco-Defense Spray Repellent
This spray safely repels Mice both in your home, around your house, or anywhere Mice are invading your property. It contains Blends of Essential Oils that Mice cannot stand to be around yet provides a pleasant scent to humans.
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